For the boys
Neil Doveton, Men’s Health fashion & grooming director, has just come back from Milan Fashion Week – I got to ask him all about it!
ETRO SS12
Is Milan Fashion Week all it’s hyped up to be?
It definitely is. Milan is without a doubt the heart of menswear. Not only at the shows but on the streets. With esteemed fashion houses like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Dolce & Gabbana and many more leaders in menswear. It comes as no surprise then that fashionistas, celebrities and fashion journalists (more than 20,000) from all over the world converge on Milan for the shows.
d&g
Tell us about the trends we can expect for next year?
There are 2 distinct trends heading or way. The first is linen. Linen, linen and more linen. It is quite clear that fashion is in a relaxed mood. The overall “wrinkles are welcome” attitude and roomier cuts are a welcome respite from previous seasons strict tailoring and slim-cut silhouettes. Colours are a pallid palette of ecru, putty and washed out greys, greens and blues which are often contrasted with brighter burnt oranges, ochre and cobalt blue. We are seeing lots of mandarin collars and Henleys paired with drawstring pants, looser less tailored shorts and more relaxed and unstructured suits. Fabrics are influenced by ethnic prints from all over the world –combined with traditional European styles creating an overall eclectic appeal that exudes the travelling man – it’s as though one has travelled to exotic destinations and mixed ethnic elements into your existing wardrobe. The softer, lighter weight linens, cottons and silk foulards make it easy to layer and still be cool and comfortable. Easy to wear is key. Pair up with cork-soled espadrilles or suede moccasins for a laidback look. But if this seems a bit much for the average guy – relax! You’ll find linen cargo shorts too, and these, worn with flip-flops and a Henley t-shirt and you’re set for your hols in Hermanus.
ermanno scervino
The invasion of bright cobalt blue and citrus orange is also going to be huge and I am confident it will go pretty mainstream. Beware – it’s seriously bright though, and a trend best left to the young and fashionably brave. But you don’t need to go blue from top to toe. It can be picked up in a subtle check of a suit or used as accents to brighten up and modernise a combination of khakis and muted earthy tones.
Favourite trend that stood out for you?
Definitely the new-look chino. It seems to have replaced denim jeans this year. It’s a great look and every guy will find a cut and style that suits them – whether you want to opt for a more trendy drop-crotch style or a traditional slim cut with a regular rise. Most popular color is khaki but there is a diverse spectrum of colours from bright primary’s to what I like to call “veggie” colours; aubergine, butternut, courgette (with mustard).
Salvatore Ferragamo
And the um, Espadrille makes a comeback. On catwalk and sidewalk this favoured shoe of yesteryear’s Spanish fisherman is back. I grew up in the era of Miami Vice and Tom Selleck and initially the thought of a linen suit with espadrilles had the fashionista in me trembling. But don’t panic. There isn’t an Hawaiian shirt in sight. And I must admit; after a while they started to have a certain appeal. Who knows, I might yet embrace the “Return of the Espadrille” Um…maybe.
DSQUARED2
What did you pack? Can you give us a 101 on packing for Milan Fashion Week – Any grooming products you can’t live without? A classic fashion item you just know you can’t go wrong with?
Packing for Milan is always a bit of a dilemma. And after attending for 7 years it still hasn’t become any easier! I attend on average six shows a day and each one a designer of distinct difference. You can see Armani and DSQUARED2 on the same day – so is it a suit or is it jeans?? And it’s really difficult to not want to pack all my favourite stuff. But I try to keep it as simple as possible. Here are some things I never leave home without>>
1. Samsonite’s Spinner suitcase – stylish and easy from the start.
2. Blackberry Torch to Tweet and Blog
3. A small camera for discreetly snapping pics of snobbish socialites and uptight fashionistas.
4. a crisp white shirt – goes with everything and can be “same-day-laundered” for a second wearing.
5 one pair favourite blue jeans
6 favourite khaki chinos – easy to dress up with brogues or down with leather sandals – weather dependant.
7 dark brown leather brogues – which I bought in Milan – I have a thing for shoes made in Italy.
8 a versatile dark tie and pocket square
9 a perfectly tailored black blazer – day or night: it’s seals the deal.
10 Dermalogica sample sachets (we love these) cleanser, moisturiser, scrub!
11 Dermalogica’s Daily Resurfacer in individual sachets – I stuff a couple of these into my pockets and messenger bag. Great for a quick post-flight or 3rd show freshen up!
11 Redken for Men’s Get Groomed hair cream – I love this product! It’s not as sticky as a gel or greasy as a wax – which when you are travelling or in 35 degree heat and trying to look glamorous is the last thing you need.
…okay. I am going to stop here. The list could go on forever….
Wow, a massive thanks Neil! What a fab trip and experience! I’m sure my male (and female) readers enjoyed that! And are sharing a little envy with me! Hope you’re taking note boys, those are some seriously valuable style tips above!
Dolce&Gabbana Men’s Show SS 2012
Thanks again Neil!
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